Review: Iftar Feast at Dishoom "you would not want to waste a drop"

Helen Clarke

For someone who has only experienced a handful of Iftar meals before, the experience feels as unique as the flavours before me - as well as the challenge of eating a four-person platter.

Dishoom has been privileged to receive rave reviews for years and is often credited with trying new concepts, tastes and combinations put together by its skilled chefs, and the Iftar feast is no exception.

If you’ve ever imagined stepping into a dimly lit Bombay food hall without leaving Manchester, this restaurant might just have the magic you’re looking for. From the moment you walk in you’re greeted with the intoxicating aromas of incense and Indian spices, and the decor has been deliberately chosen from rich oak furniture to delicate candles where even the lavatory transports you straight to the bustling lanes of Mumbai.

To begin, the chutneys arrive to set the mood and are the perfect teaser for everything that follows. The chilli is intense and packed with heat that will leave your mouth tingling, while the mint is a soothing, refreshing contrast - not overpowering, just a subtle taste that balances the spice. The coriander ties everything together, providing a moment of relief after the sharpness of the chilli.

Starting with the dishes to break your fast we have Okra Fries, lightly crunchy and lightly salted, they offer a healthy alternative to typical fried snacks. Not greasy at all, they provide a satisfying contrast to the heavier dishes, and they bring an unexpected freshness to the meal.

If you’re in the mood for the Dishoom House Chaat this tangy, vinegary version is spot on. It’s a cooling dish that complements the richness of the Keema accompanied with Pau bread which is simply divine. Be warned the Keema is a spicy dish, a hearty mix of peas, lamb, and spice - the flavours meld beautifully with the cooling effects of the chaat, making for a lovely contrast.

We also ordered the Pau Bhaji from the main menu to compare and we were not disappointed. The heat of the warm, soft stew-like dish hits you right away, while the fluffy bread comes to the rescue soaking up the intensity of the dish with ease. The bread is soft, airy, and so perfectly paired, its lightness balancing the sharpness of the bhaji.

Moving on to the Daal Gosht and Paratha, this was something we had to finish. Needles to say the lamb was cooked to perfection, and paratha has always been a go-to favourite of mine at any Indian but this was on another level. Warm and comforting, flakey without being dry and tasting so homely against the daal - made with three types of lentils. This isn't a spicy dish but a splendid answer to the goulash's of Eastern Europe.

Here we come to the signature dish of Dishoom which simply had to be included on the Iftar menu, the House Black Daal made from whole black urad daal. Much has been written about the dish already as it is one that is hard to put your finger on without tasting - the depth of flavour elevates it from the ordinary, with a rich, complex taste that makes it a much-anticipated highlight of the meal.

One of my favourites next, the Gunpowder Potatoes - they are an absolute standout. I expected an explosion of heat but instead these perfectly cooked potatoes offer a fragrant, understated kick. The spice isn’t overpowering, but each bite is perfectly balanced and I find myself more excited than I ever thought possible about a bowl of potatoes. If you order one thing here, make it this.

The Jackfruit Biryani is well-cooked, seasoned, and is a delightful combination of the key fruit, sultanas and barberries. The rice is impeccable, however as someone who doesn't like the key ingredients it was hard to judge fairly. If you enjoy the jackfruit and its accompanying ingredients I'm certain you will like the dish.

When it comes to the Tikka Masala, it's more than just your typical curry. It delivers a spice kick around halfway through your chewing that makes each bite feel like a fresh experience and builds as the bites continue. The fragrance of the dish is remarkable, and you’ll quickly realise that it doesn’t need a sauce to shine - it stands on its own, bold and beautiful.

The Raita offers a wonderful break from the heat, an uncomplicated, refreshing dish that provides a moment of respite before diving back into the flavourful intensity of the meal, and alongside the Kachumber, both dishes are perfectly placed on the menu and serve as excellent accompaniments.

Malai Kulfi is for dessert although you can opt for pistachio or mango, and if you're assuming an Indian dessert might be the weakest thing on the menu you would be sorely mistaken - the Malai flavour is outstanding. Outstanding... it is exactly what the meal needs to finish and is so cooling, caramel-flavoured, well presented and careful, even down to the serving within a tall glass with a rod so as to minimise any dripping/spilling/wastage - because you would not want to waste a drop.

My only regret about this meal is that I wasn't able to finish it.

Much applause must also be given to the staff, from the moment we walked in to the moment we left, and not just at our table was outstanding service observed but at each and every table.

A meal here isn’t just about eating, it’s about an experience, and the flavours are perfectly tuned to offer a balance of spice, heat, sweetness, and refreshing coolness.

As a bonus, the dishes are easy on the stomach, offering a lightness that makes it perfectly suitable for those observing Ramadan. Whether you're a seasoned lover of Indian cuisine or a newcomer looking to explore bold flavours, this place will not disappoint.

At £35 a head it isn't cheap no, but nothing about the experience feels cheap, so I'd ask yourself do you really want cheap?

Available until Monday 31st March the feast is set for groups of four or more every day from when the sun sets.